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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Chefs

What Foodies Eat Pre- and Post-Marathon

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More than 40,000 people will be running this Sunday's ING NYC Marathon. Among them are a handful of NYC chefs and sommeliers. Here, they share what they've been fueling themselves with during months of training and how they plan to indulge after 26.2 miles.

Nate Appleman, former chef of Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria
Go-to workout fuel: "Lärabars and bananas."
Race goal: "Finish under 3 hours and 30 minutes."
Post race: "I plan to chow down, specifically on a large steak and a whole bag of Oreo cookies."
Charity: Harlem United

Gordon Finn, Alto
Go-to workout fuel: Balance Bars.
Favorite flavor: S'mores. "They're loaded with protein and have a low glycemic index so they don't affect my blood sugar after a run."
Race Goal: "This is my first marathon, so I don't really have a time goal; but under five hours would be a major accomplishment."
Post-race: "I am planning on having a glass of Champagne at Marea. It's right near the finish."
Charity: "I'm running for Team JDRF (Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation); I've had diabetes for 12 years and it's a cause I feel strongly about. I only have $400 more to raise to reach my goal. Donate here.

Joe Campanale, co-owner, sommelier, Dell'anima, L'Artusi and Anfora
Go to workout fuel: "Apples and peanut butter. I eat that almost every day. I also love the whole-wheat everything bagels at Ess-a-Bagel and drink apple juice or orange juice with them.”
Race goal: Three hours and 49 minutes. "That's one hour faster than last year."
Post race: "I'm going to Dovetail for brunch directly after the marathon with a bunch of industry folks and am still figuring out where I'm going to eat pasta and truffles for dinner."
Charity: Hole in the Wall Gang

Restaurants

A Restaurant-Art Gallery-Flower Shop in Lima

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© Jen Murphy
Mil hojas from Amor Amar, Lima.

As soon as I booked my plane ticket to Peru, I reached out to Nicholas Gill, a super-plugged-in, Lima-based travel and food writer, and asked him where I should eat. At the top of his list was Amor Amar, a new restaurant from the owner of Pescados Capitales and former chef of La Gloria — two of Lima’s greatest culinary minds. Spectacular food. Gorgeous space. His one warning: The restaurant is hard to find. He wasn't kidding. Located in the hip, up-and-coming Barranco neighborhood, Amor Amar is on a nondescript residential street. Random white paper signs stuck to telephone poles lead the way and the only clue that you've reached the restaurant is the valets standing outside what looks like a large garage door. But that door opens into a fabulous courtyard. The entire restaurant is outside (there are heat lamps in case it gets cold) and it feels like a Hollywood backyard party with a long bar and a raised area with couches and music. I jumped between classic dishes like seafood causa (a starchy Peruvian casserole layered rice, potatoes, avocado and prawns) and a slow-roasted suckling goat cooked in a wood-burning oven. My waiter warned me from the moment I sat down to save room for dessert, a decadent mil hojas—a puffed pastry layered with lucuma, a custardy fruit, and chocolate mousse. Rather than sit in a food coma, I explored the restaurant's orchid shop and the art gallery located in an old mansion on the property. The owner showcases local artists, like Marcelo Wong, whose cherubic figures are scattered throughout the courtyard.

Restaurants

The Great Pumpkin Carving Contest at DBGB

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© Georgette Farkas
DBGB's Wining All Pumpkin Yankee Burger

At DBGB, chef Daniel Boulud’s downtown NYC bistro, the burgers have a powerful allure and not just for customers. When it came time for DBGB’s First Annual Pumpkin Carving contest, some 20 cooks and front-of-the-house staffers got out their carving knives and went crazy, two of them successfully channeling two of the restaurant’s signature burgers, the Frenchie and the Yankee. Both won prizes. Here’s a recap of the awards, where the first-place pumpkin-carvers won dinner at DB Bistro Moderne and the runners-up got Food & Wine cookbooks and magazine subscriptions.

Awards
1st Place Kitchen: Adi’s Yankee Burger Pumpkin. Every single detail was made from pumpkin, including the accompanying fries (extra credit for the grill marks on the burger).

1st Place Front of House: Zakir’s Disco Pumpkin
. The only multimedia pumpkin, this one contained strobe lights and haunted-house sound effects.

[More]

Restaurants

Laurent Gras Proves Why He’s Food & Wine’s Fittest Chef

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© Jen Leuzzi
Ken Vendrinski, Laurent Gras & George Hincapie Ride for Hope

Laurent Gras, chef at L2O in Chicago, isn’t just one of the best cooks in the country. He’s also one of the world’s fittest guys, according to Men’s Fitness (seriously). No surprise, he made the cut to be one of F&W’s fittest chefs, too.

My friend, food blogger Jen Leuzzi (aka Mrs. Laurent Gras), tells how all that led to LG’s participation in the 100-kilometer charity Ride for Hope in Charleston, South Carolina, this past weekend.

At a dinner prepared with Laurent, chef Ken Vedrinski of Charleston's Trattoria Lucca stood with pro cycling champion George Hincapie and recounted this story:

Food & Wine magazine did a story on the 10 fittest chefs in America—and I was one of them and so was Laurent Gras; we’re both cyclists. I thought I’d really like to cook with him, but how do we get him down here? George is how. I cold-called Laurent and invited him down to do the Ride for Hope with George and cook a dinner afterwards, and here we are.

At the after-party down the street at Enoteca, Gras and Vedrinksi offered their services to George’s BMC team for the 2011 Tour de France (teams travel with their own chefs). Ken said he’d cook for one week. Laurent agreed for the week in the Alps. Haute cuisine, indeed.

Farms

A Hotel That Teaches Butchering

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Once a novelty, the concept of the hotel cooking class–or even in some cases cooking school–has become ubiquitous. It was only a matter of time before a resort tapped into the nose-to-tail obsession and started offering butchering programs. Starting next month the Sanderling Resort & Spa in North Carolina’s Outer Banks will hold monthly butchering workshops taught by German master butcher Frank Meusel and executive chef Joshua Hollinger (his family was in the butchering business for more than 100 years). The one-day workshops, held at nearby Weeping Radish Farm will educate guests on how to break down cuts of a whole animal with a focus on prime cuts. The first class, on November 20, focuses on breaking down a half steer and includes lessons in emulsion cooking and smoking and turning cuts of meat into sausages and hot dogs.

Cocktails

Early Look: Ferran Adrià’s New Barcelona Spots

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© kate krader
Ferran Adria with F&W's awesome contributor Anya von Bremzen.

It’s only 2010 and El Bulli is not my local hangout; still, I’m already a little nervous about the closing of the world’s most famous restaurant in 2012. Ferran Adrià did allay my fears when he confirmed that he has plans for a new El Bulli. Now, here’s more good news from F&W’s superstar contributor, and Ferran Adrià expert, Anya von Bremzen: Ferran and his brother Albert are launching two new projects in Barcelona. Tickets (what’s with that name?) will focus on contemporary tapas; a magnificent timeline they’re designing for the space will trace the cultural history of Spain’s iconic small plates. (Just imagine what that means.) Among the four different spaces: a bar that that focuses on seafood from ports around Spain to a tapas counter dedicated to sweets. Tickets is set to open in January. Meanwhile, the Adriàs’ second project, 41°, has a singular focus, too: cocktails, emphasis on contemporary. That’s slated to open at the end of November. So, I asked Anya, why is Ferran doing tapas now? Here’s what she said: “Spain’s very top chefs are responding to the country’s slumping economy by turning to tapas. Albert helped pioneer this trend with his fabulous tapas bar Inopia. To have Ferran involved now; that’s truly exciting.”

Recipes

Dave Chang in the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

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© kate krader
Dave Chang and Grace Parisi team up in the F&W Test Kitchen.

I’m so happy about the trend of visiting chefs, who temporarily take over their colleagues’ kitchens (Animal restaurant in Los Angeles has been exemplary in offering up its kitchen to chefs like Jeremy Fox, and you’ll hear more about that in our January '11 issue). And then there’s Dave Chang, who is working on a pop-up restaurant in Food & Wine’s Test Kitchen. Ha! Actually he’s here talking through his Korean vegetable recipes with F&W's Grace Parisi—you’ll see those dishes in our March issue. You can't believe how quickly Dave and Grace teamed up to make hand-torn noodles for an outstanding Korean shiitake soup. So stay tuned. If they start a little pork-bun kiosk in the Test Kitchen, you’ll hear it here first.

Chefs

A New Sustainable Butcher in L.A.

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© Jennifer May
Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura

In the November issue, our new Trendspotting column touched on the zeitgeist of the macho vegetarian, and writer Julie Powell told us about her experience interning with Josh Applestone, the formerly vegetarian, vegetable-pushing butcher at Fleisher's Grass-Fed & Organic Meats in Kingston, New York. Now, Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura, two Fleisher's alums (both also former vegetarians) are headed to L.A. to open Lindy  & Grundy. Posada (a former floral designer) and Nakamura (a former chef at Blue Hill at Stone Barns ) will sell locally grown, humanely raised meat and make their own sausages, bacon and charcuterie. There will even offer curbside delivery to customers in a rush. Their shop won't open until late fall, but for now, you can follow their cross-country adventure and the lead-up to the opening on Twitter. Follow Nakamura at @TheButcherette and Posada at @thefemmebutcher.

Restaurants

Why Mario Batali and Jimmy Fallon are Proving David Letterman Wrong

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© Ken Goodman
Jimmy Fallon helps Mario Batali cook and raise money to fight hunger.

As you might have heard, David Letterman recently took shots at food-related television shows. (Letterman was looking at shows like Man vs Food. And honestly, it’s hard to fault an attack on a show that glorifies overeating with the huge problem of hunger in the world.) That’s why this is an excellent time to give a shout-out to all the food professionals and organizations raising so much money to feed hungry people. Here are two of them.

Mario Batali/Mario Batali Foundation – Since launching his charity in 2008, Mario Batali has worked tirelessly to ensure that kids are well fed, and also well cared for. At his latest MBF fundraiser at Del Posto, Batali brought in a few friends—Jimmy Fallon, Anthony Bourdain and Michael Stipe to name three—and raised $200,000 in one night.

Rachael Ray/New York Wine & Food Festival
– When Letterman apologized for his rant, it was to Ray. Good thing, because Ray hosts one of NYWFF’s biggest events, the Burger Bash. And proceeds from the Burger Bash (and all of NYWFF) go to the outstanding Food Bank of New York. Yay, too, for Food & Wine, which sponsors the NYWFF. Estimates are that the festival raised over a million bucks. Sweet.

Chefs

A Night with Ferran for A Day at El Bulli Screening

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© kate krader
Ferran Adrià with F&W star contributor Anya von Bremzen.

Ferran Adrià was only in New York briefly—I estimate 48 hours—but he still screened the amazing documentary A Day at El Bulli. The profile of the world’s most famous restaurant is directed by Ferran’s brother, Albert Adrià (more on Albert in a second). Here, a few more cool details.

The Film: As the name suggests, A Day at El Bulli includes morning coffee with Adrià, a surprisingly laid-back staff meal, the arrival of the first customers at 7:30 pm (remember, this is Spain), the departure of the last customer at who-knows-what time, and plenty of mind-blowing food all the way through.

The Screening Location
: The just-opening Bar Basque in the Eventi hotel in midtown NYC, which will feature a rotating list of visiting chefs from the Basque region. Another smart feature of the restaurant: a giant projector with the capacity to show films on the wall of an adjacent building.

What Ferran Said At the Reception (in Spanish, via a translator): “This is the first time I’ve seen the film since I announced the closing of El Bulli. Now I know, the spirit must continue. But it’s necessary to have a transformation.” Ferran will announce his exact plans for the new El Bulli at the next Madrid Fusión conference on January 26, 2011. Meanwhile, he’s heavily involved with Albert in a new version of their terrific tapas Barcelona tapas bar, Inopia.

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