At Toro, in New York City and Boston, Jamie Bissonnette is on a crusade to get people to like tripe.
At Toro, in New York City and Boston, Jamie Bissonnette is on a crusade to get people to like tripe. His weapon of choice: callos, a cozy stew of tripe and beans. “Tripe is often made badly, but it’s so easily made well just by paying attention,” he says. “When you get tripe in Spain or Italy, it can be so heavy and rich because they cook the tripe with all the vegetables all at the same time.”
Instead, Bissonnette cleans the tripe, blanches it, then stews it ahead of time to tenderize it. Then, as orders come in, he re-stews it with Marfax beans, garlic, onions, tarragon, Basque cider, tomatoes, paprika, chiles and heirloom tomatoes. “That way you still get the brightness of each ingredient,” he says. “I love to make things that people think they don’t like. And I’m proud to say that when people come into the restaurant and tell me they don’t like tripe, I have a 95 percent success rate of people saying they like my tripe.”