This piece originally appeared on Wallpaper.com.
Of the chefs that have taken the dining experience – be it a supperclub, omakase-style tasting menu, or plain old dinner – and transformed it into something resembling art, Craig Thornton has taken it perhaps further than any other. His "Wolvesmouth" supper clubs, run from his Arts District loft in Los Angeles, are still one of the hardest reservations to get in a famously food-obsessed city and have rapidly become the stuff of legend. Though the chef has always been candid about his approach and ideas, breathless descriptions have nevertheless cemented the event’s underground status as something resembling the culinary equivalent of a night in Berghain.
His latest residency, at the Geffen Contemporary branch of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles (MOCA), takes his approach to a new level. Dubbed "Wolvesmouth: Taxa", the residency is a full-sensory dining experience that explores the interface between food and art, and attempts to summarize what Thornton is striving to achieve. He's described it as an artist-driven experience somewhere between a high-end supperclub with elements of an avant-garde art project.