Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Daily Word Wizard

When it comes to an explanation for a baguette's elongated shape, legends abound—including one involving Napoleon.

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Expert Guide

Lionel Vatinet knows bread. 

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Trendspotting

Two radical traditionalists grind their own flour—the way their great-great-grandparents once did—at Chicago’s most forward-thinking new bakery.

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Blogger Spotlight

Stephanie Wise of Girl Versus Dough talks about her love of quick breads and easy yeasted breads that come out perfectly every time.

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America's Best Gluten-Free Bakeries

Many a gluten-free loaf resembles a brick more than bread. But not at this husband-and-wife–owned shop in Philly’s Italian Market.

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Mad Genius Tips

At F&W headquarters, doughy, white sandwich bread is good for one thing—and it’s not sandwiches. 

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F&W Masters

With more than 20 years experience, Chad Robertson of San Francisco's Tartine Bakery is a true breadmaking virtuoso. Here, he names the five qualities that separate an amazing loaf from a mediocre one.

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Expert Lessons

In this week's edition of Mad Genius Tips, F&W Test Kitchen whiz Justin Chapple shares an incredible method for for reviving a stale baguette that involves running the bread under water. Here, 13 more useful tips for buying, storing and eating bread.

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Rant For Your Life

I woke up on a recent morning, like every morning, thinking about toast. I knew that if I kept thinking about toast—not French toast, or toast points, but traditional white toast like you eat at breakfast—I would work myself up into a towering wrath. And there was nothing to be wrathful about! I had fallen asleep at the St. Cecilia hotel in Austin listening to Neil Young records, and woke up knowing that I was about to have breakfast outdoors with a grackle, one the city’s ubiquitous, crow-like carrion birds, at Jo's up the street. (I was in Texas to do the press conference for Meatopia Texas in San Antonio, and also to eat at Qui, which, by the way, is AWESOME.) Once at Jo's, I ended up with a world-class breakfast taco, which I shared with the friendly corvid. In Texas, excellent tortillas seem to take the place of toast much of the time, but I had wanted toast. And I couldn't get it. Because, in Austin as in so many great American cities, our restaurants all fail the Toast Test.

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Chef Intel
FoodandWine
Eric Ripert and Eric Kayse

Eric Ripert and Eric Kayser © Nigel Parry

This spring, New York City’s legendary seafood restaurant Le Bernardin stopped baking its own bread and began outsourcing the task to another legend, Maison Kayser, a famed Parisian bakery that opened its first American outpost on the Upper East Side last summer. “I thought the bread we had at Le Bernardin was fine but not at the level of the quality of the food,” explains Le Bernardin’s chef and co-owner Eric Ripert. Maison Kayser bakes and delivers 10 kinds of (still warm) bread to the restaurant three times a day. Among the offerings Ripert orders are mini and full-size baguettes, focaccia, and unusual offerings like rye-lemon loaves, basil-sesame rolls and turmeric-fennel rolls. “When I eat Maison Kayer’s bread it’s so good, it’s pleasure,” Ripert says. “Every roll has been made by hand. The quality of the flour that they use and the technology that they use to create their bread is very unique. Eric Kayser has invented what we call levain liquid: liquid sourdough starter.” Customers agree with the master French chef. “Since we’ve had the bread from Kayser, clients eat bread three times more than before,” Ripert says. “It’s great, but it’s expensive.” Here, Ripert chats with F&W about the evolution of bread in restaurants, the bread at Le Bernardin and his biggest butter pet peeve.»

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