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The owners of my favorite Brooklyn beer bar just opened a barbecue store, Fette Sau (“Fat Pig” if you don’t speak German), across the street. To call it a restaurant would be misleading; the Fette Sau experience is more akin to dining in a butcher shop. You wait in line until you reach a glass meat case, then point to your selections (a rotating selection of barbecue’s greatest hits), which are weighed on a scale and priced by the pound. Then—and this is the fun part, especially when you’re carrying 14 pounds of smoked meat—you fight for a spot at one of the precious few picnic tables. Napkins and plates have been replaced by rolls of paper towels and lots of reaching across laps.
And that’s how barbecue should be enjoyed, I guess. But what will keep me coming back to Fette Sau is their drinks list: They offer almost 40 American whiskeys (bourbon, rye, corn, etc.) by the glass and 10 local beers (four of them custom-brewed for the restaurant) on tap. There’s better barbecue in New York, but nobody else helps you wash it down as well.