For the past few years, prolific chef Barbara Lynch had been telling me about her idea for a fine dining restaurant to add to her mini Boston empire. It would make you want to put on your Manolos and new Lanvin dress. It would be elegant without being stuffy. And it would be French. Last week I finally got to experience what took five years to realize. Menton
, named for a tiny French village, is next to two other great Lynch spots, Drink and Sportello, in Boston’s Fort Point neighborhood. The fabulous space is glamorous without being at all girly. Designed by Jeffrey and Cheryl Kates (they’ve designed everything from Lynch’s home kitchen to her restaurants No.9 Park and Stir) it has beautiful touches like Ted Muehling candlesticks and a Murano glass chandelier that hangs above the silver leather reception. The monochromatic paintings were created by Matt McClure, an American artist and former No. 9 Park bartender who now lives in Burgundy. The food from young Lynch prodigy Colin Lynch (no relation) is outstanding: refined, flavorful, unexpected. Highlights of the chef’s tasting menu included a butter soup studded with chunks of lobster and topped with caviar and a touch of honey (excellent with a glass of Champagne) and kataifi-wrapped langoustines with pickled rhubarb and pumpkin seed oil. Lynch has taken Boston’s fine dining scene to a new level. As dramatic as the dining room is, I hope I can land a seat at the chef’s table on my next visit. The glass-fronted room looks out on the stainless steel Molteni kitchen and is done up in malachite wallpaper with a huge silver banquette and is definitely the best seat in the house.