Am I the only one who is freaked out about the future of New York City restaurants? Who sees so many beloved places announce that high rents are forcing them to shut their doors and move away from neighborhoods that they helped establish?
I’ll answer my own question—I’m not the only person freaked out on the subject. Here’s what Alex Stupak, chef and owner of New York’s remarkable Empellón Mexican food empire, has to say. “The rent escalation in New York is terrifying. If your rent goes up from $10,000 to $50,000, let’s say, then you have to make that up somewhere: on your tableware, on your food, on your staff. Pretty soon you’ll decide that it’s easier to use paper plates so you can save on your water bill. In 20 years, this just might be a city of Taco Bells, like in Demolition Man.”
Yikes. The alarm first sounded for me when I heard about the closing of Pastis, the brasserie oasis in the Meatpacking District. It’s gone. Alarm bells also rang when the star chef Bobby Flay—Bobby Flay!!—had to close Mesa Grill because his rent doubled. Then came word that the modernist WD-50, whose chef Wylie Dufresne was key to turning the Lower East Side into a dining destination, would close this November. And now news that makes the earth shake even harder: The venerable Union Square Café, which defined farm-to-table dining in New York City as far as I’m concerned, is closing at the end of 2015, when the rent will skyrocket to somewhere around $650,000 a year.