The barometer for wine coolness these days is drinkability. Rather than stocking up and hording away rich, tannic, and ageworthy bottles, more and more oenophiles are turning to youthful whites and reds with bright acidity and fruit purity. Wines that require decanting hours in advance or other pomp and ceremony: out. Wines you can pop and pour on the patio in lieu of a session beer: in.
That leaves Spain in a tough spot. So many of the country's wines have built a longstanding reputation on their cellarability and brooding, earthy flavors. One notable exception is the region of Galicia.
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Its extreme northwestern geographical situation, its proximity to the cool, salty Atlantic, and its wealth of fruit-forward and rare native grapes make Galicia a treasure trove of wines for warmer weather. That includes Albariño, the now ubiquitous white from Rías Baixas, but also the vibrant, red-berry scented reds made from the Mencía variety—a sort of Gamay-meets-Cabernet Franc with a Spanish accent—and blends based on grapes you've probably never heard of, like Caiño, Sousón and Brancellao.