This fall, we have our eyes on collars—not jackets, but fish. Chefs like Chris Cheatwood of The Monterey and Hot Joy in San Antonio are obsessing over this rich, fatty piece of meat: "The collar is a delicious piece of cartilage, meat and bone that connects the belly to the back of the head and 'chin' of a fish," he says. "There's dark and light meat, and lots of fat, which makes it one of (if not THE) most tasty parts of the fish." In what seems like a reverse burst of inspiration, some creative cooks are even expanding from fish collars into pork. Here, five collars we're craving.
1. Alimento; Los Angeles: smoked yellowtail collar with potatoes, capers and sour cream.
2. Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.; Brooklyn: chicken-fried fish collar with sautéed greens.