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Expert Travel Guide

Paris Neighborhood Guide: 8th, 9th and 18th Arrondissements

Paris Neighborhood Guide: 8th, 9th & 18th Arrondissements

Lazare. Photo © Line Klein

To mark the new edition of her classic Food Lover's Guide to Paris, Patricia Wells gives writer Jane Sigal the ideal itinerary for a food-filled day in the French capital.

Patricia Wells's route from the monumental Place de la Concorde through the twisting streets of Pigalle and Montmartre reveals fantastic new jam makers, pastry chefs and chocolatiers, plus chefs with expanding empires and superb people-watching.

Breakfast: Ladurée The original shop in this haute pâtisserie chain offers unparalleled people-watching, like "a tall, thin, very pregnant French woman in her all-leather maternity dress eating an éclair," says Wells. "Only in Paris."

Shopping: Vis-à-Vis Paris The linens here—all highly refined and hand-embroidered—depict flora and fauna or abstract patterns.

Forge de Laguiole This shop carries supersharp folding and table knives.

Lunch: Lazare Eric Frechon's buzzy new brasserie serves sublime classics like Haricots Verts and Artichoke Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette.

Shopping: Rue des Martyrs Neo-artisans not to miss on this great food street: La Chambre aux Confitures (No. 9,, Sébastien Gaudard (No. 22, and Henri Le Roux (No. 24,

Culture & Coffee: Le Bal In this photo-arts center, two English expats cook modern British food like Roasted Cauliflower Soup with Cumin.

Dinner: La Rallonge Chef Geoffroy Maillard's wine bar mixes exquisite French and Spanish tapas.

Author and journalist Jane Sigal, F&W's Paris correspondent, is writing a cookbook on the new French bistro for Rizzoli.

Related: Paris Travel Guide
Paris Restaurants
Paris Wine Bars
Paris Chocolate Shops
Paris Hotels
Paris Bakeries
A Francophile’s Guide to Paris and Provence
The World's Best Food Cities: Paris

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