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My aunts Josephine Yeung and Betty Louie used to own a Cantonese restaurant called House of Louie in the L.A. suburbs. I grew up in that place. I really liked the chicken feet. One reason is the interaction with them—you have to spit out the little, tiny bones. I have a big thing for that kind of cartilage texture.
Records and Turntables
We’re a musically influenced kitchen. We have a turntable in the dining room. I’m an unabashed fan of pop music: the Bee Gees, Earth, Wind & Fire. We also have a lot of donated albums. A customer ordered an A Tribe Called Quest album for us because we didn’t have it. The music here is insanely eclectic, and the songs affect the mood of the cooks.
I hang out at the Rothko Chapel, in Houston. Rothko’s canvases look like they’re straight black or brown, but as you stare at them, you realize that they’re filled with color and little details. Being able to think like that is important to a chef. It’s the details that make a dish yours, and make it special.