Essential Drinking
2012 Romano Clelia Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino
2012 Romano Clelia Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino
Courtesy of Marc de Grazia Selections

2012 Romano Clelia Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino: If you're looking for an entry point to Italy's more-than-2,000 under-the-radar native grapes, Fiano is among the best. Grown mostly in volcanic soils in the southern Campagnia region, this sommelier-favorite grape is capable of producing delicious wines that range from refreshingly crisp to boldly complex. Clelia Romano's version is both at once: It has plenty of acidity and a stunning range of flavors—two of the more vivid ones being fresh dill and candied lemon. The finish is close to ideal: long, with minerally flavors that stay focused and delicious until they fade.

Drink It With: Richer Italian seafood preparations, like chef Michael Emanuel's delicious squid-topped pizza with saffron aioli.

Best Price Online: $19 at Wine Library. (Find more stores.)

Also Look For: The excellent Fianos from Mastroberardino, the producer credited with pulling the grape out of obscurity in the 1940s.

Related: More Essential Drinking
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