The 2012 Best New Pastry Chefs.
Though school is starting around the country and Labor Day is approaching, we still plan to nurse our ice cream obsession until chilly fall really sets in. Here, the members of F&W's inaugural class of Best New Pastry Chefs share their recommendations for the best ice cream around the country (other than their own, that is).
Screaming Mimi’s, Sebastopol, CA. “I usually order the English toffee with their handmade waffle cones, which are amazing,” says Devin McDavid of San Francisco’s Quince restaurant. “The ice cream has great flavor and mouthfeel, and a large flavor selection that changes with the season. It always reminds me of childhood trips to the ice cream shop.”
Izzy’s, Minneapolis. Stella Parks of Table 310 in Lexington, KY loves the signature ‘Izzy Scoop.’ “It’s a tiny top hat-like scoop of ice cream that you can order on top of any cone, giving you the joy of two flavors in a much more manageable format than a classic double scoop,” she says. “Plus, it looks adorably jaunty.”
Pumphouse Creamery, Minneapolis. “Their flavors are intense, never too sweet,” says Parks. “They serve lots of well-executed classics like butter pecan and mint chip, which I love since so many artisan shops abandon the nostalgic classics in favor of obscure ‘gourmet’ flavors. They also have handmade cones made from locally milled whole grains that give them a deliciously nibby quality. But their secret weapon is the best malted butterscotch shake in the universe.”
Bi-Rite Creamery, San Francisco. “The salted caramel ice cream is incredible; the texture, flavor and saltiness is really amazing,” says Chris Ford, the 2012 People’s Best New Pastry Chef from Wit & Wisdom in Baltimore. “Sometimes salted caramels are too salty or overly aggressive with the depth of caramel, but this one crushes it on every level. It has the perfect balance of rich cream and salty caramel.”
Big Olaf’s, Sarasota, FL. Bryce Caron, pastry chef at Graham Elliot in Chicago, fondly remembers this shop off Siesta Key Beach from his childhood growing up in Florida. “I haven't been there since I was five or six,” he says, “but I still remember the black walnut double scoop in a waffle cone.”
Margie’s Candies, Chicago. “I rather enjoy a butterscotch sundae with vanilla ice cream but they have much more than that,” says Caron. “The sandwiches are delicious. Margie's is the kind of place you visit to forget the fact that you live in a major urban environment. Just grab a club sandwich and a banana split and call it a day.”
Sundae School, Dennisport, MA. Shawn Gawle, pastry chef at Saison restaurant in San Francisco, made pilgrimages to this spot as a child when visiting his grandparents. “I'm a sucker for classic mint chocolate chip and Oreo, and they now do a coffee Oreo ice cream, which is great,” he says. “The ginger is nice too!”
Capogiro, Philadelphia. Gawle is a fan of their honey rosemary goat’s milk gelato. “It’s incredible!” he says.
The Nut House, Provincetown, MA. “I go there only for the brown butter brownie ice cream,” says Gawle.
Sandy’s Hamburgers and Frozen Custard, Austin, TX. “Their chocolate malts are out of this world!” says Laura Sawicki of La Condesa in Austin. “And they go so well with fries!”
The Juice Bar, Nantucket, MA. Sawicki loves this beachy spot that makes incredible waffle cones. “You can smell them a mile away and the line wraps around the block,” she says.
For more tips from these amazing pastry experts, check out Stella Parks’s blog BraveTart and Chris Ford’s blog ButterLove&Hardwork.
Best New Pastry Chefs 2012
America’s Best Ice Cream Cities
Homemade Ice Cream Recipes