© kate krader
Tri-color cookies (homemade!) at Torrisi
But let’s talk about that dinner, which is a $45, five-course deal. The Torrisi chefs are doing brilliant things, like topping perfectly greasy and garlicky bread with tomato powder, then serving it with warm mozzarella. They also make Ravioli Caruso, filled with chicken liver and named for the famed tenor who backed the epic NYC restaurant Mamma Leone’s (Torrisi and Carbone cite Mamma Leone as an inspiration alongside Thomas Keller and Joël Robuchon in a video they made about themselves). For dessert, Torrisi offers Italian ices inspired by the Lemon Ice King of Corona in Queens—made here with grapefruit and served in little paper pill cups—and a cookie plate that includes a stellar homemade version of those tri-color ones that, for once, taste as good and as fun as they look.