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Le Fooding’s Best New Toy: La Toquera

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Inaki Aizpitarte makes his toquera for Le Fooding

Before the Le Fooding crew came to town, I had no idea what a toquera was. Now I have a new obsession. Alexandre Cammas, who’s here to launch Le Fooding d’Amour Paris-New York—the two-night extravaganza courtesy of the irreverent French foodie group that features crazy-good New York chefs cooking alongside crazy-good Paris chefs, with plenty of Michel Chapoutier wine and LCD Sound System and Paul Sevigny DJing—introduced me to it. (The Le Fooding event, which takes place September 25 and 26 at P.S. 1 in Long Island City is mostly sold out of their $30 tickets—a few are still available if you get there early.)

Anyway, la toquera is a French invention of a chef making a cooking video while holding a camera (toque + camera). By necessity, the recipes are short and easy to follow and invariably hilarious. Le Fooding’s French website has several, from pastry icon Pierre Hermé’s wasabi-and-grapefruit “emotion” to Zoe’s cake from Pierre Jancou of the amazing wine bar Racines. My favorite so far is Toquera #19, Oriental mussels from Inaki Aizpitarte of Le Chateaubriand, who’s in NYC for Le Fooding and who manages to combine his very obvious cooking skill with his equally obvious distaste for being on camera.

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