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Next: Duck Necks

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I didn’t think chef Ralf Kuettel at Trestle on Tenth could create anything more gluttonous than Metzgete, but clearly, I was wrong. Just in time for the Super Bowl, he’s selling the braised-then-fried duck necks he offers on his menu as a luscious heat-and-serve alternative to chicken wings. I ordered a bunch as soon as I heard about them. They came bundled in butcher paper-lined newspaper, still slightly warm with easy reheating instructions. I popped them in the oven right away, and five or so minutes later, they were sizzling in their own fat and delightfully crisp. Each neck has a good three or four big meaty bites, then the fun part begins: Pulling the tender shreds of meat from the flexible honey-comb-like bone structure. To help cut through all the juicy fat, lemon wedges and an anchovy aioli come nestled in the package with the necks. Trestle on Tenth (212-645-5659) is taking orders for duck necks now for Sunday—they’re $16 per dozen. If this is how the Swiss-born Ralf reinterprets a great American Super Bowl snack, I can’t wait to see what he does for the Fourth of July.

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