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FoodandWine

I spend a good bit of time in and around the Baltimore area with my in-laws, and I'm always a little disappointed when we try any remotely ambitious restaurants. So we play it safe, eating crabs on most occasions—though ironically, the area's signature crustacean is currently being flown in from places like Texas, since the Chesapeake blue crab is being fished to its capacity. Still, I'm drawn to places like Costas Inn, which just this past weekend was serving platters of steaming-hot blue crabs, thickly crusted in Old Bay. I'm also keen on the giant broiled crab cakes at Rib 'n Reef, where they use so little filler that you get hunks of lump crab in almost every bite.

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