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Dinner Party for the Jaded

My friend—let's call him P.—recently texted me: "You and I are both jaded in the same ways." (We don't have typical text-speak banter like, "C u 2moro.") So when it came time to throw him a surprise birthday party, I knew I had to choose a fantastic restaurant. And fantastic, for the type of jaded we both are, meant that it had to be new, original, undiscovered, unpretentious, and absolutely, unequivocably delicious. (It would also help if the place could seat about a dozen at one table, preferably in a private room.) Where we ended up was even better: BarFry's ultra-tiny, no-frills enclosed backyard, at a picnic table, where the only adornments were a few tealights. I'd always been a huge fan of chef Josh DeChellis's deft, pristine dishes at Sumile Sushi. So while I think he should sneak in more than two raw dishes a night, I'd definitely go back for the plump tempura oysters—and then some cold, biting "wasabi peas"—green snap peas tossed with fresh wasabi—to cut down on the grease (and ease my conscience).

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