If there were a human barometer of the deliciousness of a wine, that human would be Matty Colston. Colston, of Chicago’s Parachute restaurant, is an effusive, soulful champion of what he and his friends like to call "wolf wines."
“I didn’t coin the term,” says Colston. “That was my good friend Greg Powell, who works for Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. When he told me about it, I just connected with it instantly. I knew exactly what he was talking about. It’s a wine that makes you want to howl. You know, it has this direct line straight into your pleasure zone; it’s not contemplative. You wanna drink the hell out of it, but it’s still significant.”
Obviously, these are the sort of wines we all want to know about. “These wines have been transformative for me,” he says. “Like, transforming into a wolf at night. I like the idea of a wine that is intensely pleasurable but also transformative. Like, you’re not really the same after it.”