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Restaurants that serve wine in Riedel glasses are a dime a dozen these days. Restaurants that commission American artisans to make their stemware are something else altogether. Fleming's Steakhouse in Boston is such a place; its glasses are made exclusively by West Virginia's Masterpiece Crystal.

New Stars in South Africa
Some high-level pairings are taking place in South Africa: Simunye, a collaboration between star winemaker Zelma Long of California and winemaker Michael Back of Stellenbosch, and Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, a joint effort between the South African Ruperts and the French Rothschilds. 

All Aboard in Alto Adige
One of the hottest wine regions in Italy right now is Alto Adige, thanks to winemakers like Alois Lageder, and also, rather unusually, to several wine co-ops, such as Cantina Produttori Santa Maddalena and San Michele Appiano. 

Old Port, New Bottles
One of the world's most traditional wines, Port, has undergone a radical repackaging with Warre's new 10-year-old tawny, Otima. This Port comes in a clear 500-milliliter bottle, along with a (heretical?) suggestion that it be served chilled ($25).

Rhônes on and off the Range 
Two one-word-name wine bars have opened recently in New York City. At Rhône, the sleek meat-packing-district space is the setting for an homage to the food and wines of that southern French region; Sliver, in SoHo, specializes in hard-to-find California labels. 

By Lettie Teague 

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