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Cuenca, a year-old truck stop, is on the main road from the ecotourist resorts in the mountains to the beaches (on the Pan American Hwy. at the R’o Aranjuez; no phone).

El Galeón is on the docks, so yachtsmen bring their catch to chef Mathew Michaud for him to use in their dinners (Marina Los Sueños, Playa Herradura; 506-643-2536).

Mar Luna serves pristine seafood grilled over volcanic ash (Manuel Antonio; 506-777-5107).

Villa Caletas has private villas and restaurants with staffs trained by visiting chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants (off the Pan American Hwy., near Jacó; 506-637-0606 or www.hotelvillacaletas.com).