Central Otago, near Langbein's lake house, is one of New Zealand's greatest Pinot Noir regions; Martinborough is another. Here she describes three Pinots she loves.

2004 Dry River Pinot Noir ($70) Several years of aging develop this Martinborough wine's rich cherry and berry flavors. It's great with spicy food, meat and cheese.

2004 Felton Road Block 3 Pinot Noir ($60) This Central Otago benchmark tastes of pomegranate, plum and spice. We drank it with braised pheasant; it was stunning.

2003 Peregrine Pinot Noir ($38) A staple in my cellar, this Central Otago wine is probably New Zealand's most internationally renowned Pinot. With its concentrated flavors, it's very good with venison, duck and lamb.