Robert Feenie is known around Canada as an Iron Chef winner. He’s also one of Vancouver’s best cooks. Feenie’s is his more casual restaurant (Lumière is his other), with a menu dedicated to haute comfort food like the Feenie Burger (with or without sautéed foie gras). New wine director Sebastien Le Goff, Vancouver’s Sommelier of the Year in 2006, has added impressive Old World bottles to the formerly all-New World list. Details 2563 W. Broadway; 604-739-7115.
This wildly popular spot in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood is the first endeavor from young, tattooed chef Robert Belcham, who has cooked at the city’s Nu and C as well as at the French Laundry in Napa Valley. Belcham’s menu offers inspired dishes such as caramelized onion consommé with a Manchego cheese wafer, and crispy pork shoulder with garlic confit and blood orange. His business partner, Tom Doughty, runs the wine program; among the local bottlings they offer is Doughty’s own label, Montagu Cellars Winery, made with grapes from Canada’s Okanagan Valley. Details 1944 W. Fourth Ave.; 604-288-7905.
Right next door to Fuel is the likable Gastropod, also debuting a talented young chef—Angus An. His training at Toqué! in Montreal and at the Fat Duck in Bray, England, is apparent in dishes like salmon with wasabi sabayon and warm bulgur salad. Gastropod buys wines each week, and many of them, like Sandhill Gewürztraminer and Blasted Church Pinot Noir, are made in British Columbia. Details 1938 W. Fourth Ave.; 604-730-5579.