Mi Manda Picone This lively wine bar has a terrace overlooking the beautiful San Francesco d’ Assisi church, and a list with 400 or so labels; almost all are available by the glass. About two-thirds are Sicilian, like the unusual Passopisciaro, made from Etna’s Nerello Mascalese grapes. The wine-friendly menu offers what owners Antonella Bonanno and Sandro Tatanò call “revisited” Sicilian cooking, like baccalà; (salt cod) served carpaccio-style with arugula. Via A. Paternostro 59; 011-39-091-616-0660.
Grand Hotel Wagner This property is named for the German composer, who wrote sections of his Parsifal in the city. Opened in February in an early-20th-century palazzo, it sits near the Teatro Massimo, Palermo’s major opera house (the concierge can arrange tickets). The decor includes the chandelier used in the ballroom scene of the Visconti film The Leopard, as well as Louis XVI–style furnishings. There’s no restaurant, but cold foods like silky tuna carpaccio, local shrimp cocktail and Sicilian Ragusano cheese are available in the lounge. Doubles from $368; Via R. Wagner 2; 011-39-091-336-572.
Pasticceria Da Arturo Since the early 1900s, Giovanni Facondo’s historic pastry shop has been famous for its cookies, made with Sicily’s deep-green, intensely flavored pistachios grown in Mount Etna’s volcanic soil. There are nutty macaroons and sweet white-chocolate and pistachio torrone as well as frothy granite and gelati—including the tangy Catania lemon—served with airy brioche and potent cups of coffee. Via Umberto 73; 011-39-095-921-068.