Due south of L.A., traditionally sleepy Orange County gets a wake-up call from two newcomers:

Aqua The third of chef Michael Mina's haute seafood palaces is a stone's throw from the beach at Dana Point in the new $240 million St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort. Look for signature Aqua dishes and lavish tasting menus, along with a five-course spa menu (1 Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point; 949-234-3325).

Red Pearl Kitchen Asian flavors have been infiltrating Tim Goodell's French menus at Aubergine and Troquet for years. So this 2000 F&W Best New Chef's playful foray into Chinese cuisine should be worth watching (412 Walnut Ave., Huntington Beach; 714-969-0224).