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Lotus of Siam Diminutive chef Saipin Chutima prepares awe-inspiring platters from her hometown in northeastern Thailand in a quiet, unpretentious setting (953 E. Sahara Ave.; 702-735-3033).

Rosemary's Restaurant New Orleans husband-and-wife chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan's superbly inventive cooking (barbecued shrimp with Maytag blue cheese slaw, goat cheese cheesecake) brings a fiercely loyal clientele to the West Side (8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 702-869-2251).

Wild Sage Café Wolfgang Puck alumni Stan Carroll and Laurie Kendrick do justice to an inviting California-style menu (fried artichoke hearts, grilled meats and fish) at their roadhouse-in-a-strip-mall (600 E. Warm Springs Rd.; 702-944-7243).

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