Gastón Acurio’s modern Peruvian spot offers remarkable dishes, like lacquered goat cooked with chicha (corn beer).
Javier Wong’s restaurant, inside his house, has no menu. Meals start with simple sole ceviche; the next course depends on the chef’s whim and the day’s catch.
Chef-owner Teresa Izquierdo is a champion of African- and Spanish-influenced Criollo cooking, notable for endless pots of great beans and tripe.
A sophisticated spot serving distinctive dishes from north Peru’s Moche civilization, like quickly grilled cured grouper.
Acurio’s ceviche restaurant, which has a San Francisco outpost, serves dozens of versions of cured fish, including a delicate sea urchin.