I've been going to Jackson Hole for 12 years, and nothing has ever changed except the amount of snow. But not this winter. The biggest news: The Four Seasons (doubles from $475; 7680 Granite Loop, Teton Village; 307-734-5040) opens mountainside this month, with a fireplace in each room and an enormous spa that offers treatments like couple's massageone room and two masseurs in front of a fire. Nearby, the more affordable year-old Teton Mountain Lodge (doubles from $99; 3385 W. Village Dr., Teton Village; 800-801-6615) has large rustic rooms, many with kitchenettes, an outdoor Jacuzzi overlooking the Tetons, and Cascade, a casual dining room with the best lunch arounda seared tuna burger with wasabi mayo.
In town, at the back of the stellar Jackson Hole Wine Company, is one of Jackson's best restaurants, the dimly lit, seven-table Koshu (200 W. Broadway, Jackson; 307-733-5283). I love sharing disheslike fried green beans with hoisin sauce and broiled eel teriyakifrom the Asian-Latin menu. Koshu's owners recently opened another great place, the Mediterranean Cyprus (45 S. Glenwood Ave., Jackson; 307-733-8220). Like everyone else there, I start with a Nina Fresa cocktail, made from muddled strawberries and lime, Absolut Citron and soda, then order the roasted chicken with arugula bread salad. For casual French food, I like Rendezvous Bistro (380 S. Broadway, Jackson; 307-739-1100), which became a hit when it opened in 2001. The best seat in the house is at the bar, where oysters are served by the half dozen. Sunday nights are reserved for pizza at the Old Yellowstone Garage (175 Center St., Jackson; 307-734-6161). I'm always too exhausted after skiing to read the 150-bottle, all-Italian wine list, so the host, David Gilbert, brings me a glass of the house red as I wait for the waiters to circulate with the Genovese pizza (topped with pesto, potatoes and homemade ricotta). Then I get to bed early; the tram line starts forming at 7 a.m.