1998 Vilmart Grand Cellier Cuvée Rubis ($48) A stunning rosé that's perfectly pitched between power and delicacy, with a nose redolent of wild strawberries.
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte-Anne ($28) A creamy, toasty Champagne that's an excellent buy.
2000 Pierre Gimonnet Gastronome 1er Cru ($48) This all-Chardonnay Champagne is fairly concentrated but marked by Didier Gimonnet's trademark finesse.
Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny Brut ($40) A remarkably rich, nuanced wine made from the usually second-class Pinot Meunier grape.
Guy Charlemagne Réserve Brut ($39) An all-Chardonnay wine from the famed village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. It's wonderfully balanced, with excellent acidity and a long finish.
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