The recession can't be entirely bad; what else could explain the spate of new hot-dog shops? These, however, have a lot more style (and attitude) than your average Nathan's Famous ever could. Dawgs on Park in New York City's East Village serves turkey, tofu and Hebrew National all-beef dogs, deep-fried until they're crinkled and crispy, and dressed with a corn salsa or other unusual condiment (178 E. 7th St.; 212-598-0667). At Hot Doug's in Chicago, classic wieners are listed alongside specials like venison sausage and chorizo with chiles and garlic (2314 W. Roscoe St.; 773-348-0326). And Rosamunde Sausage Grill in San Francisco offers varieties made with smoked lamb, pork and beef, topped with a choice of beef chili, fresh and grilled onions and an assortment of imported and domestic mustards (545 Haight St.; 415-437-6851).