Though he was duly excited to accept the job as chef at Le Park, in the new Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme, Christophe David was nervous. A Taillevent alum who was returning to Paris via Radii at the Park Hyatt Melbourne, he knew the local crowd could be unforgiving. Wondering how to stand out, David and the Hyatt team decided that what Paris needs now is steak—not just any steak, but the best from Charolais, Salers and Normande cattle. It's an idea as audacious as the space that houses it: Le Park's open kitchen faces concentric circles of banquettes. When David says everyone's watching, he means it literally (3—5 rue de la Paix; 011-33-1-42-44-26-62).

—Kate Sekules

Published November 2002