When Jeff Saunders bought this shop in 1984, it was around Passover. Noting the brisk demand for kosher wines, Saunders says, "I saw my future." Today, he carries more than 500 kosher wines, including trophy wines like the 2003 Château Valandraud ($400) from St-Émilion, a garagiste prize. And yes, it really is kosher (5681 Riverdale Ave., Riverdale; 718-601-8222 or skyviewwine.com).
Brooklyn
Heights Chateau
Among the chic wine boutiques now opening all over Brooklyn, this 21-year-old emporium rates as an institution—albeit one with a lot of new and interesting wines, such as the Mayr-Nusser Blaterle nonvintage ($17), an ultra-rare white from the Alto Adige region of Italy. There are helpful notes around the store too, like the one posted over the pricey Barolos suggesting that Nebbiolo delle Langhe (same grape, same region) delivers similar character for a lot less money (123 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn Heights; 718-330-0963 or heightschateau.com).
Queens
Grand Wine & Liquor
There are more Greek wines for sale in this sprawling shop under the elevated subway tracks than there are in Greece, according to manager Peter Panayiotou. Two to try are the 2005 Notios ($11), a spicy red made from Agiorghitiko grapes in the Nemea province, and the fresh, lively 2005 Vatistas Monemvasia ($19), made from the white Assyrtiko grape (30-05 31st St., Astoria; 718-728-2520 or grandwl.com).
Staten Island
Mission Fine Wines
Anyone looking for rare, mature wines, such as a 1961 Château Mouton Rothschild ($1,479) or 1994 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ($85), would do well here. The store, a short ride from the Staten Island ferry, sells mainly online, but visitors are welcome by appointment (1610 Richmond Terr.; 718-818-0910 or missionfinewines.com).
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