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The Expected: Daniel
There are superlative wines from all over the world on this list, but classic French reigns supreme. For example, there are 24 vintages of Château d’Yquem. But wine director Daniel Johnnes also looks for high-quality wines at good prices, like the 2000 Domaine Saint Andrieu Vallongue ($30) from the Coteaux du Languedoc (60 E. 65th St.; 212-288-0033 or danielnyc.com).
The Unexpected: Balthazar
The cellar under this Soho standby was "a mess" when wine director Chris Goodhart took over in 2003. Now the cellar is perfectly organized, and the list includes picks from just about every wine region in France. Goodhart loves what he calls "wines of discovery" like the 1989 Brisebarre demi-sec Vouvray ($50), a great value (80 Spring St.; 212-965-1414 or balthazarny.com).
Italian
The Expected: Babbo
"We try to turn people on to Italian wine," says Babbo’s wine director, Colum Sheehan. But the mammoth list can be a challenge. Thus, two sommeliers are on the two floors at all times. They may recommend the impressive 1982 Vietti Barolo Riserva ($375) or a value like the 2004 Ocone Taburno Falanghina ($28), a white from Campania (110 Waverly Pl.; 212-777-0303 or babbonyc.com).
The Unexpected: La Pizza Fresca Ristorante
Ex-ad man Brad Bonnewell fell in love with pizza and decided to open his own pizzeria. Then he fell in love with wine. His 800-selection list includes three pages of Barolos—at very reasonable prices: a 1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo is $244 and a rare 1988 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino is $245. There are 80 wines under $75 (31 E. 20th St.; 212-598-0141 or lapizzafrescaristorante.com).
Blowout
The Expected: Veritas
Even top wine lists have weak spots, but it’s hard to find any on this 3,200-selection tome. "We have the greatest selection of Bordeaux and the world’s best collection of Châteauneuf-du-Pape," says wine director Tim Kopec. Kopec is also proud of his "Market List" that includes a lively Loire sparkler, Trotignon Brut, for $27 (43 E. 20th St.; 212-353-3700 or veritas-nyc.com).
The Unexpected: Gilt
"It’s easy to buy all the classics," says Jason Ferris, wine director of Gilt, which opened in 2005. All the prices-be-damned trophies are here, from 1989 DRC Montrachet ($6,200) to 1971 Penfolds Grange ($1,100). But Ferris says, "I can get just as excited about a Tasmanian wine like Pipers Brook Pinot Noir Reserve" ($118) (455 Madison Ave.; 212-891-8100 or giltnewyork.com).
Old Vintages
The Expected: Harry’s Café and Steak
When Harry Poulakakos opened his café in the basement of historic India House in 1972, he bought 25 cases of 1971 Pétrus for $175 each. Harry’s list now has 13 vintages of Pétrus (the 1971 is $2,600) and impressive depth in American wines, including 15 vintages (1975 to 1997) of Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve (1 Hanover Sq.; 212-785-9200 or harrysnyc.com).
The Unexpected: Compass
"People come for the food, then we surprise them with the wine list," says James Endicott, wine director of this low-profile Upper West Side restaurant. The list includes great old Bordeaux and Burgundies but also nine vintages of Peter Michael "Cuvée Indigène" Sonoma Chardonnay dating back to 1991, some in magnum (208 W. 70th St.; 212-875-8600 or compassrestaurant.com).
Value
The Expected: Landmarc
This wine list may have some of the lowest prices in town: 2005 David Bruce Petite Syrah for $28, a textured 2005 Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc for $32 and Pol Roger Reserve NV Champagne for $40. Wine director David Lombardo is also a big advocate of half-bottles; his list features more than 50, many under $20 (179 West Broadway; 212-343-3883 or landmarc-restaurant.com).
The Unexpected: A Voce
"We think wine is for everybody," says wine director Olivier Flosse, who is proud that two-thirds of his wines are below $70, including 10 selections of wines from Piedmont between $25 and $43. There are also high-end bargains like the 1996 Château Lafleur for $380—only $30 more than at an uptown retail wine shop (41 Madison Ave.; 212-545-8555 or avocerestaurant.com).
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