© Gabriele Stabile
When Food & Wine asked Dave Chang for a Thanksgiving story, he blanked. Dave is the force behind New York City’s Momofuku restaurants; he was named an F&W Best New Chef 2006 for his wildly innovative, Asian-ish American food. I acquired a good working knowledge of Dave’s cantankerous mind when we wrote the Momofuku cookbook, and I was sure he’d want to do something uncompromising. I know, for example, that his mom makes Stove Top stuffing, so a Korean-American Chang family Thanksgiving was not going to fly.
But Dave does know turkey. Last November, one of his favorite farmers had 40 extra birds, so Dave bought them, and the Momofuku cooks had a Thanksgiving-themed competition, inventing dishes like an unctuous and ugly confit turkey neck.