Here are three outstanding American market-restaurants, each reflecting the personalities of the cities in which they're located, each showcasing chefs whose uncomplicated yet exciting food makes the most of the spectacular ingredients that are so accessible to them.
Across the Street
New York, New York
Eli Zabar, whose eponymous family food emporiums are a New York legend, launched an ambitious specialty food market, The Vinegar Factory, in the early Nineties. Manhattan real estate being as scarce as it is, he had to cross the street to find property for the restaurant he also wanted to operate. In 1996, after hiring chef Seen Lippert from Berkeley's Chez Panisse, he opened Across the Street (444 E. 91st St.; 212-722-4000; dinner entrées $19 to $28.