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The Jerusalem City Guide

A decade-long initiative to renovate Machane Yehuda's 100-year-old market in Jerusalem—known to locals as "the shuk"—has inspired restaurateurs to open market-to-table places all along its edge.

"The shuk is the nerve center of the Jerusalem food world," says Tali Friedman (right). A veteran of some of Israel's top restaurants, Friedman now leads insider tours of the market that are followed by a cooking class and a wine-paired meal in her nearby kitchen space.

Eat & Drink in Jerusalem

Jerusalem's Chamishi Be' Mai sources the cheeses for their sandwiches from Basher Fromagerie.
© Avital Pinnick

Chamishi Be' Mai

On the shuk-inspired menu are sandwiches made with cheeses from famed Basher Fromagerie (left) and seasonal soups like sweet potato, carrot and butternut squash. Must try: Emmental cheese and avocado on whole-grain bread.

Jerusalem's Mousseline.
© Mauricio Rosales

Mousseline

Homemade ice creams and sorbets feature seasonal Israeli produce. Must try: Saffron ice cream or pomegranate sorbet.

Jerusalem's Machneyuda restaurant.
Courtesy of Machneyuda

Machneyuda

Two blocks from the market, this spot is run by a trio of Jerusalem's top chefs and must be booked weeks in advance. Dishes reflect traditions of the Ottoman Empire. Reserve a seat at the chef's counter, where Israeli song lyrics are stenciled into the concrete surface. Must try: Chamshuka, a dish of hummus, ground beef, labneh (yogurt) and preserved lemon.

Jerusalem's Yudaleh wine bar.
Courtesy of Yudaleh

Yudaleh

During the day, it's the prep kitchen for Machneyuda. At night, it morphs into Jerusalem's buzziest wine bar, with a serious small plates menu and pulsing soundtrack. Must try: Herb-flecked antias (yellowtail) fish cakes.

Café Mizrachi

Chefs and purveyors gather early each morning at Café Mizrachi for killer cappuccinos, plates of roasted eggplant with shakshuka (eggs cooked in a tomato-pepper sauce) and a generous serving of daily market gossip.

Shop in Jerusalem

Pri Ha'Adama

This new ceramics co-op on the shuk's edge sells work by Jerusalem's best artists. Hot item: Boldly striped bowls.

Sofia

A few blocks south of the shuk, this boutique in a 150-year-old storefront stocks clothes from Israel's top designers. Hot item: Cable-knit sweater vests from Rhus Ovata.

Published May 2011
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