The Jerusalem City Guide
"The shuk is the nerve center of the Jerusalem food world," says Tali Friedman (right). A veteran of some of Israel's top restaurants, Friedman now leads insider tours of the market that are followed by a cooking class and a wine-paired meal in her nearby kitchen space.
Eat & Drink in Jerusalem
On the shuk-inspired menu are sandwiches made with cheeses from famed Basher Fromagerie (left) and seasonal soups like sweet potato, carrot and butternut squash. Must try: Emmental cheese and avocado on whole-grain bread.
Homemade ice creams and sorbets feature seasonal Israeli produce. Must try: Saffron ice cream or pomegranate sorbet.
Two blocks from the market, this spot is run by a trio of Jerusalem's top chefs and must be booked weeks in advance. Dishes reflect traditions of the Ottoman Empire. Reserve a seat at the chef's counter, where Israeli song lyrics are stenciled into the concrete surface. Must try: Chamshuka, a dish of hummus, ground beef, labneh (yogurt) and preserved lemon.
During the day, it's the prep kitchen for Machneyuda. At night, it morphs into Jerusalem's buzziest wine bar, with a serious small plates menu and pulsing soundtrack. Must try: Herb-flecked antias (yellowtail) fish cakes.
Chefs and purveyors gather early each morning at Café Mizrachi for killer cappuccinos, plates of roasted eggplant with shakshuka (eggs cooked in a tomato-pepper sauce) and a generous serving of daily market gossip.
Shop in Jerusalem
This new ceramics co-op on the shuk's edge sells work by Jerusalem's best artists. Hot item: Boldly striped bowls.
A few blocks south of the shuk, this boutique in a 150-year-old storefront stocks clothes from Israel's top designers. Hot item: Cable-knit sweater vests from Rhus Ovata.