Ice cream artisans are challenging the Ben & Jerry's of the world. Illinois-based Ecreamery makes blends to order, with exotic flavors like sweet potato-like ube and jasmine (from $80 for one gallon; ecreamery.com). Inspired by a trip to Italy's Veneto region, John and Stephanie Reitano, the husband-and-wife owners of Capogiro Gelato Artisans, churn out creamy gelati like honey-cumin and silky sorbetti like kiwi and blood orange (from $60 for six pints; 119 S. 13th St., Philadelphia; capogirogelato.com). LaLoo's in Northern California sells pleasantly tangy goat's-milk ice cream in six flavors, including chocolate and pumpkin ($8 for one pint; goatmilkicecream.com).

Published August 2005