Some people demand their soups hot. Others like them cold. Here's a détente.

June 01, 1999

It was in the early Seventies, after an episode of Julia Child's The French Chef, that my mother first decided to make vichyssoise. I was underwhelmed; my parents were ecstatic. Despite my protests ("Mom, it's cold"), she continued to make it every summer, and I continued to sneak into the kitchen to heat it up. Today my taste has evolved enough to appreciate cold soup. Of the recipes I've devised here, the curried carrot soup can be served hot or cold, the fresh pea soup is best hot, and the vichyssoise is still up for debate.

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