Mr. Chui looked most thoughtful. "I am informed that people are drinking wine with their food now. Is that so?" he asked. "Yes," I agreed, knowing that I was on somewhat irrefutable ground and prepared as well to have one of my periodic, occasionally elliptical, chats with Mr. Chui. Chui Wai Kwan that is, Number Seven Big Brother and proprietor of Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong, perhaps the finest seafood restaurant on the planet. "And any restaurant of certain high repute should have a house wine, a good house red wine. Is it not so?" he persisted.
"Most do," I replied, nodding.
"Then we must have my house wine," Mr. Chui said with a sly grin, beckoning over his right shoulder with a forefinger as if to say, come. At once a bottle appeared at his right elbow, a bottle of 1982 Château Lynch Bages, a fifth-growth Bordeaux which, if not great, is certainly grand. It is surely the best wine that has ever been suggested to me as a house wine, particularly as an accompaniment to shrimp-filled dumplings, yellow-oil crab and a steamed fat green wrasse.