It’s the last-minute run-up before Christmas dinner, and New Orleans chef John Besh is hard at work. He assumes total control as he simultaneously works the stove, oven and countertop staging area. Garlic-scented kale sizzles in a pot. A foil-tented standing rib roast—rubbed with an herb, garlic and horseradish butter that has formed an irresistible, crispy crust—rests on a carving board. The aroma of baking popovers wafts through the kitchen.
As the oven door slams shut, a member of Besh’s kitchen crew impatiently signals for the chef’s attention.
"When are we eating?"