Savory toppings and quick pastry make for a light and elegant lunch.

In the town of Point Reyes, California, an hour north of San Francisco, Peggy Smith's year-old Tomales Bay Foods has created a buzz among Bay Area food lovers. "It puts a smile on my face to know I'll be close by," says cookbook author Paula Wolfert, who is buying a house in the area. Smith, a Chez Panisse veteran, is best known for her selection of the region's outstanding organic produce, wines and artisanal cheeses. But I fell for Smith's savory tarts, with rich pastry and irresistible toppings like new potatoes with Fontina and smoked chicken with Monterey Jack. When I got the recipes, I found they were quick to make. The pastry takes only minutes to prepare; while it chills, I assemble the toppings.

Published March 1998