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• HEAVY-GAUGE CONSTRUCTION. Stainless steel-coated aluminum and copper are best because they conduct heat quickly and evenly. Inexpensive lightweight pans are apt to burn food over the high heat needed for sautéing. (Use pans with untreated surfaces for meat, poultry, vegetables, seafood and meaty fish; use a nonstick surface for delicate fish.) The heavier the pan, the harder it will be to lift. Don't worry. Tossing food in the pan is showy but not always necessary. A good pair of tongs and a spatula will do the job.    
• TWELVE-INCH DIAMETER. This size holds a substantial amount of food without being too unwieldy or heavy. A 10-inch pan is fine for small portions.    
• OVENPROOF HANDLES. These allow you to finish cooking a dish in the oven in the same pan. A helper handle opposite the long main handle is a boon for turning food out onto a platter.

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