1997 MCDOWELL ($10). This simple wine is perfectly executed, with the true Syrah flavor of juicy, tangy berries mingled with smoked bacon.
1996 BONTERRA ($19). Wafting perfumed clouds of clove and allspice, this lovely wine, made from organic grapes, doesn't feel forced in any way--it's neither too extracted, nor too oaky, nor too ripe.
1997 JADE MOUNTAIN HUDSON VINEYARD ($30). Made from very ripe grapes, this wine is dark, super-concentrated and perfumed with intense wild berry fruit. It's smooth and tooth-purpling but avoids jamminess.
1997 QUPE BIEN NACIDO RESERVE HILLSIDE SELECT ($40). This velvety wine is pillow-soft and sneaky rich. It will make you a Syrah believer.
1997 SEAN THACKREY ORION ($60). This wine comes from an old-vine Napa vineyard planted in 1905 that Thackrey thinks is mostly Syrah. Rich and well balanced, it will scent a room with its aromas.
1995 ARAUJO EISELE VINEYARD ($75). Ultra-refined, generously proportioned, unfolding delicately woven layers of perfectly ripened fruit flavors, this wine is in a class by itself. Get on the winery's mailing list if you can.
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