America has become a sushi nation.
Sushi is passed by waiters at bar mitzvahs, served in college food halls, sold in plastic trays at convenience stores. There's four-star sushi and nightclub sushi, sushi shower curtains and sushi refrigerator magnets.
Sushi is a relatively recent arrival in the U.S., making its first small inroads a decade or so after World War II. A sashimi dinner in the 1950s at Miyako in San Diego, if you knew to go there, would run you $1.25. By the mid-1970s the chef at Tokyo Kaikan restaurant in Los Angeles had invented the California roll.