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Napa Valley Cabernet

SUPERSTAR: 2005 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet ($70)
Ladera winemaker Karen Culler often praises the elegant, silky tannins that Howell Mountain gives Cabernet. This wine shows shat she means: The firm tannins are so fine-grained they’re almost imperceptible, allowing the ripe black currant and blackberry flavors to take center stage.

SUPER STEAL: 2005 Green Lion Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($19)
This new Cabernet from Dan Philips, the well-known Australian-wine importer (and an F&W contributing editor), is his first foray into California—and a remarkable deal. Though not as complex or aromatic as the Ladera, it’s juicy and bright, with similar black currant notes.

Super Tuscan

2004 Sassicaia ($180)
The original super-Tuscan red (a term for wines that brought French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot into a Tuscan context), Sassicaia is still one of the greatest, if not the greatest. In '04, it's extraordinarily focused—a clear, pure statement of cassis fruit that opens in the glass to reveal smoky spice notes.

2004 Altesino Rosso di Altesino ($16)
A super-Tuscan at a not-so-super-Tuscan price, the medium-bodied 2004 Rosso di Altesino—a Sangiovese blend from a well-known Brunello producer—offers cherry-cassis flavor and a dark earthy edge. It won't develop complexity over time, as the Sassicaia will, but it's delicious right now.