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Ferran Adrià began making headlines in 1998, around the time he got his third Michelin star at El Bulli in Rosas, Spain, serving such dishes as smoked water foam, and eggplant ravioli with a Fisherman's Friend cough medicine caramel. Since then, the 42-year-old continues to explore new ideas, spending six months a year experimenting at his Barcelona laboratory. Adrià's influence can't be overestimated. He was the first to fuse science with cooking; to break down the boundaries between sweet and savory, hot and cold, liquid and solid; and to use edible ephemera such as foams. These days, he's working on "teppan nitro," a teppanyaki griddle that freezes food with liquid nitrogen instead of heating it, and making tea ravioli filled with tiny blocks of lemon granita that have the texture of a fragile bubble. Adrià's technical skill and deconstructive method created a new language for food that most Spanish chefs are now fluent in; the best use it to make highly personal statements. To be perceived as an Adrià copycat is, well, embarrassing.
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