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Juan Mari Arzak
The first Spanish chef to win three Michelin stars (in 1989), Arzak, 62, has an uncanny ability to synthesize progressive ideas into soulful dishes at his Basque restaurant, Arzak. With his daughter, Elena, Arzak wraps oysters in faux plastic (made from sheets of rice starch), which vanishes when sauce is poured over it, and serves his low-temperature poached egg with a graffiti-like spray of squid ink. DETAILS Alto de Miracruz 21, San Sebastián; 011-34-943-285-593.
Pedro Subijana
Subijana is renowned for his TV spots, cookbooks and handlebar moustache. Irrepressibly whimsical, he continually invents dishes at his Basque restaurant, Akelare, such as a revolutionary risotto (Asian black rice with two textures, creamy and crunchy) and a magic-trick cuajada (a puddinglike dessert) made from a glass of milk that miraculously coagulates when a piece of hot steel is dropped into it. DETAILS Paseo Padre Orcolaga 56, San Sebastián; 011-34-943-311-209.
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