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Pinot Noir is often poured at Thanksgiving because this light red does not compete with the traditional feast's rich, spicy and sweet flavors. Spago sommelier Kevin O'Connor, for instance, chose the delicate, Burgundian-style 2002 Bonaccorsi Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, from Santa Barbara County ($42), made by the late Michael Bonaccorsi, a former Spago sommelier. But Luis de Santos, another sommelier in the Spago group, takes a more unconventional approach: He prefers serving chilled rosés as a light and refreshing contrast to a hearty menu. De Santos's current favorites include Jeff Morgan and Daniel Moore's 2002 SoloRosa, from California ($15), the 2003 Bodega Muga Rosado Rioja, from Spain ($10), and the rosé Champagne NV Billecart-Salmon Brut ($70).