We had driven almost two hours from our small hotel in the French Pyrenees, all the way across the mountains to the Spanish border, through the resort town of Roses and along a winding, bumpy one-lane mountain road. The only visible sign of civilization came in the form of bulldog heads stenciled on some roadside rocks.
We were on our way to El Bulli (The Bulldog), a much praised restaurant that food critics everywhere have described as "the most interesting in the world today." Once seated, I began studying the wine list and realized I'd made a big mistake.
I'd recently fallen in love with Spanish red wines and had prepared for our trip by reading up on and tasting as many of them as I could find. Unfortunately, it hadn't occurred to me to do the same with Spanish whites. And as it turned out, El Bulli, located near the Mediterranean Sea, specializes in seafood, notably shellfish.