Great potato gnocchi should be tender, ethereally light, nicely potatoey and able to stand up to any sauce. So why does this marvelous dish, composed of just three ingredients (potatoes, flour and salt), so often come out doughy and tasteless?
Though I've been writing about food for 40 years, it's only in the past year that I've figured out how to make perfect gnocchi. From my explorations, I've come up with the following six indispensable steps.
Step one: Start with Yukon Gold potatoes. Russets will do, but Yukon Golds have more of the nutty flavor of the yellow-fleshed boiling potatoes used by the Italian and Provençal cooks who have mastered gnocchi.